feeling for | In Madrid, an all-organic menu meets striking and surreal design

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Mama Campo sources organic food from local chefs, which is then both sold in the market and cooked in the restaurant’s kitchen.Credit

When Manolo Yllera first told me last year that he was opening a market and restaurant in Madrid, I had a hunch that the Spanish interior photographer would create something worthy of any lens. . And of course, Mama Campo is the kind of bright, airy and quirky place that can only be brought to life by a set of hands belonging to someone with a good sense of design.

Entering the whitewashed space of Trafalgar Street is a truly transporting experience, taking visitors out of the old traditional neighborhood of Plaza de Olavide, perched in central Madrid, and into what looks like a market and a restaurant of rural producers. The organic space – filled with lamps made from recycled and sustainable materials, wool and wood artwork, and sconces that resemble real bird nests – looks surreal thanks to its tall design. range. The works of more than 40 artists, ranging from international superstars like Tom Dixon and Patricia Urquiola to a host of local designers, include 20 pieces commissioned especially for the space.

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The eclectic set of tables, chairs, lighting, and artwork includes works by internationally renowned designers, like Tom Dixon, as well as local Spanish artists.Credit

But of course, the design wonderland is just a backdrop for the tasty food. With two partners, David Yllera and Nacho Aparicio, Yllera sources seasonal local flavors from organic producers in the region. Even the wine and beer are organic. And farm-to-table dishes, like stews and paellas topped with grandma’s homemade quality, are served by Daniel Larios, who studied cooking with Michelin-starred chef Martín Berastegui. There is even a children’s market for small buyers with a high appetite. But beware of travelers: the seven on-site tables have been full since the space opened on March 3, so settling in for a casual meal requires some planning in advance.

Mama Campo, Trafalgar 22, Madrid, Spain, 91 4474138; mamacampo.es.


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