3 lessons for £ 35 at the Lowry Hotel
A menu from the new exceptional fall menu of the River Restaurant …
Dave Ashton, Executive Chef of River Restaurant, posted a new Chef’s choice menu – 3 classes for £ 35 – and so naturally all excited we headed to the 5 * Lowry Hotel to see what he found.
I have never been very impressed with the food at the River Restaurant – its exceptional quality, level of service and the sheer elegance of the place suit its location in one of the most prestigious 5 star hotels in town .
The restaurant menu, and indeed all the menus themselves – whether for bar snacks or gin & tonics – they are all widely served, refined and polished by the dedicated and experienced team there – and the results are really excellent.
Something as simple as, say Bread & Butter – well, you step into territory where you can start saying it’s “the best you have ever had” – and it all depends on the quality of the ingredients and a good dose of imagination.
This is perfectly reflected in Ashton’s new autumn menu, which on the surface seems rather simple – but behind that facade is a succession of very intricate and intricate dishes that surprise and delight when expertly placed. in front of you at your table.
Dave himself explains that this time of year is his favorite; “Cook hearty dishes that truly nourish the heart and soul. “
We started things with the Miso crab, a delicate, chilled starter that was super fresh – not just with the crab, which will have walked sideways on a beach a few hours earlier, but with the inspired addition of cubes of frozen pickled lemon sorbet – adding a burst of citrus and an intense cold snap to the already busy party in your mouth.
The vegan Truffle & Sweet Corn Ravioli was not at all what I expected – which was quickly becoming a recurring theme throughout the meal. The plate was garnished with a fairly large ravioli, surrounded by a homemade cashew cheese sauce and crispy capers.
There was a lot going on on this plate, but it all seemed to work wonderfully – and the contrast of the crunchy capers, the subtle yet satisfying truffle aromas and the outstanding vegan cheese sauce all came together to create a truly excellent dish.
It’s not traditionally a habit for me to order chicken at a restaurant, however – at the River Restaurant – I’m very glad I did.
I was drawn to the Organic chicken breast because of the inclusion of the rather sensational Hen of the Woods mushroom, and with two huge pieces of perfectly seasoned and seared fleshy mushrooms on the plate – I was truly a very happy man.
The chicken itself was perfectly cooked, not even a little dry in the house, and it came with a delicious black garlic sauce that was both potent and molasses sweet.
We also went for the Herdwick lamb crust – a masterclass on the different ways of cooking and of presenting this often unknown meat. Derived from Yew farm in the Lake District there are big chunks of rump, alongside Fermented Chilli Glazed Rib and a few indulgent Lamb Fat Rosti.
In the main menu is also Cauliflower Katsu, Wild bar and 10 oz Cumbrian Rib Eye Steak.
For dessert, we chose a truly magnificent Date cake with caramelized bananas, rum and mega curd ice cream. The whole thing was better than 99% of all the sticky caramel puddings I have ever had.
The Grilled Pineapple, which was topped with tangerine sorbet and perched on a coconut sponge, was also exceptional and the perfect end to a truly impressive and wonderful meal.
Also available for dessert is a Selection of British cheeses, Manjari Dark Chocolate and Caramelized roasted pear.
The new chef’s choice menu is available Monday through Saturday at The River Restaurant.
3-Class for £ 35
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